Roland Fuse Reference Page - S-50/550/330/760, W-30, JX-10, MKS-70, Alpha Juno-1, Alpha Juno-2, MKS-50, HS-10

AC Power Fuse Reference For Roland Synths & Samplers
(117V SYSTEMS ONLY)

Every synth and sampler DIY'er needs to keep a couple of extra fuses handy for the times a screw is accidentally dropped inside the case or when a Floppy Disk Drive is plugged in backwards. Poooof! There goes the fuse and there are none in your spare parts kit. This is a useful list of the most common fuses used on a few Roland synths and samplers for 117V systems only. All fuses are glass cartridge, measure 5 mm x 20 mm and look similar to the fuses shown below

▶ ▶ ▶ ALWAYS UNPLUG THE SYNTH OR SAMPLER FROM THE POWER SOURCE BEFORE REPLACING A FUSE ◀◀ ◀

▽ ▽ ▽ 117V SYSTEMS ONLY ▽ ▽ ▽

  SYNTH or SAMPLER

   AMPERAGE

 VOLTAGE RATING

  FUSE TYPE

  PCB SILKSCREEN

  REPLACEMENT SOURCE

ALPHA JUNO-1
ALPHA JUNO-2

HS-10

300mA

250V

Fast Blow

F1 (Fuse Board)

Littelfuse P/N: 0235.300HXP

CD-5 (Two Power Fuses!)

2A
1.6A

125V
250V

Fast Blow
Slow Blow

F101 (Power Supply Board)
F102 (Power Supply Board)

BelFuse P/N: 5MF 2-R
BelFuse P/N: 5ST 1.6-R

JX-10

1.25A

125V

Slow Blow

F1 (Power Supply Board)

BelFuse P/N: 5ST 1.25-R

MKS-50 (Two Power Fuses!)

200mA
1A

250V
250V

Slow Blow
Fast Blow

F1 (Fuse Board)
F1 (Main Board)

BelFuse P/N: 5ST 200-R
BelFuse P/N: 5SF 1-R

MKS-70

S-50

630mA

250V

Slow Blow

F1 (Filter Board)

BelFuse P/N: 5ST 630-R

S-550 (Two Power Fuses!)

5A
4A

125V

Fast Blow
Slow Blow

FUSE 1 (Power SW Board)
F3 (Power Supply Board)

BelFuse P/N: 5MF 5-R
BelFuse P/N: 5TT 4-R

S-330
W-30

S-750

1.25A

125V

Fast Blow

F1 (TDK PSU Board)

BelFuse P/N: 5SF 1.25-R

S-760 (Two Power Fuses!)
Note: 1.5A fuse is for the SCSI port

1.25A
1.5A

125V
125V

Fast Blow
Fast Blow

F1 (TDK PSU Board)
F1 (Main Board)

BelFuse P/N: 5SF 1.25-R
BelFuse P/N: 5MF 1.5-R

SP-700 (Two Power Fuses!)
Note: 1.5A fuse is for the SCSI port

1.25A
1.5A

125V
125V

Fast Blow
Fast Blow

F1 (TDK PSU Board)
F1 (Main Board)

BelFuse P/N: 5SF 1.25-R
BelFuse P/N: 5MF 1.5-R

  SYNTH or SAMPLER

   AMPERAGE

 VOLTAGE RATING

  FUSE TYPE

  PCB SILKSCREEN

  REPLACEMENT SOURCE

△ △ △ 117V SYSTEMS ONLY △ △ △

D-110
JV-880

U-20
XP-50

U-220
U-110

    I have opened up all six of these synths and have been unable to find a fuse anywhere inside!!!
    Also, there are no fuses to be found on the schematics for these six synths
    I'm just guessing a fuse is sealed inside the power transformer making this part a "throw‑away" item

NOTES:
You can always replace a 125V fuse with a 250V fuse of equal Amperage as long as the application voltage is 250V or less
However, the reverse is not true. You can't replace a 250V fuse with a 125V fuse of equal amperage if the application voltage exceeds the 125V

S-50_S-550_ZONE

Extra info about fuse types, case markings and symbols for various fuses at this link and this link

Miscellaneous Fuses

PICO® Fuse Resistor

S‑550 / S‑330 / S‑750 / S‑770
- In addition to AC Power fuses, the Roland S‑550, S‑330, S‑750 and S‑770 have one (or more) small PICO® fuses which protect the sampler from any short circuits or current overloads on the EXT CTRL 9‑pin port and the DIGITAL RGB 8‑pin port for video. The EXT CTRL port is used to connect a Mouse or an RC‑100 Controller. If you have a non‑working Mouse, non‑working RC‑100 Controller or no video output, see the PICO® fuse replacement info at this link for some repair tips

S‑760
- This sampler also has a small PICO® fuse and is installed on the OP‑760‑1 Video Expansion Board. It's there to protect any short circuits or current overloads on the DIGITAL RGB connector and is connected in‑between Pin‑1 of the DIN‑8 connector and Vcc. The silkscreen location is FUSE1 on the lower OP‑760‑1 Video Board. This PICO® fuse is identical to the one used on the S‑550, S‑330, S‑750 and S‑770. To my knowledge, there is no fuse protection used on the S‑760's EXT CTRL 9‑pin port

S‑50
- I see no fuses of any kind on the S‑50 schematics for protection to the EXT CTRL 9‑pin port or the DIN‑8 digital RGB connector sooooooo... tread lightly when plugging external devices into these ports

Fusible Resistor
Roland synths such as the JV‑880, U‑220 and others have a fusible resistor connected to the LCD circuit. If you monkey around with changing out the LCD, a crossed wire will blow this component. A fusible resistor serves dual functions. When the power isn't exceeded, it serves as a current limiting resistor. When the power rating is exceeded, it functions as a fuse, burns up, and becomes an open in the circuit to protect components from excess current. I've blown‑up a few of these while trying to retrofit new LCD's on my synths when I crossed some wires. Replacement is easy but you will need to solder these in place very carefully.

Unlike a normal resistor, these are easily destroyed if you keep the soldering tip on it for more than 3 seconds. This fusible resistor is at silkscreen location R116 on the JV‑880 Main PCB and at silkscreen location R35 on the U‑220 Main PCB. This special replacement part is the same for both synths. It's a 1/2W, 8.2Ω fusible resistor (Vishay P/N: NFR25H0008208JA500) and is available at mouser.com

▶ SPECIAL NOTE: If you replace a PICO fuse or a fusible resistor, take extra care to observe how Roland installed it! This component sits far above the PCB and away from other components, about 25mm. This is on purpose so that if this fuse does blow, it won't scorch other nearby components or traces on the PCB from the excess heat it generates during failure. Since this is a "Fast Blow" fuse, use a heatsink when soldering it in place. Use a slightly lower than normal soldering temperature (less than 300℃ / 572℉) and don't let the soldering iron make contact for more than three seconds at a time. Otherwise, the performance may be deteriorated or the fuse may open

Other Synthesizer And Sampler Homepages I Maintain

I think this topic is important enough to place on all my synth and sampler INFO webpages

Of all the broken gear I've found on eBay, I'm able to fix about 90% of everything I find. It's usually a simple fix. If you have a synth with no power or intermittent problems after it warms up, it's probably due to the fact that back in the 1980's Roland and other synth makers used sub‑par solder and/or not enough solder to hold components in place. After 30+ years, the solder begins to break down and hairline fractures appear. This occurs at a higher rate for components which generate a lot of heat like Bridge Rectifiers, Power Transistors, large Electrolytic Capacitors, power input jacks and audio sockets which get a lot of use. The best approach is to use a magnifying glass and carefully inspect the backside of the circuit board. If you spot any suspect areas, re‑flow a hefty amount of NEW solder

If you find some of this DIY info useful, please consider donating a small amount. All donations are used for future DIY synth and sampler development. Thanks!

Safety Precautions
Modifications made to any factory stock equipment will always pose an element of risk. Sometimes mistakes are made which are irreversible. Improper soldering and handling of electricity can cause serious injury and damage the synthesizer. Use caution when handling static sensitive devices and the PCB. Make sure you are properly grounded, working on a static‑free workbench or table and wearing eye protection during any soldering tasks. The author is not responsible for any damage or injury resulting from this DIY info. Use this DIY information at your own risk. And, I can't stress enough, the importance of wearing eye protection while soldering. That stuff flies everywhere sometimes!

The Information On This Page Is Current As Of

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